Author: Erica Cirino (

The leaders of Iceland’s slow-travel movement

I’m standing on the bow of a creaking wooden schooner called Ópal, looking out over the Greenland Sea for signs of life here at the quiet edge of the Arctic Circle. Save for the crews I see aboard the occasional industrial fishing vessels that...

Author: Erica Cirino (

Where Whales and Plastic Meet

On the turbulent sea, white-capped waves blur into the distant snow-dusted mountains and the icy air bites at exposed skin. In the unforgiving conditions, Belén García Ovide braces herself against the wooden railing of the Ópal, scanning the wild sea for whales...

Translate »